Okej, nu ska jag då försöka mig på att berätta för er hur det här äventyret var. Det känns svårt, det har hänt så mycket saker och jag vet att jag kommer glömma av en miljon av dom eftersom jag inte orkade skriva ner vad jag var med om under dagarna, något som jag förövrigt varit jätteduktig på att göra här nere annars. Men jag var för trött helt enkelt..
Jag tänkte att jag skulle börja med att försöka beskriva känslan som fanns när jag kom ner från berget. Efter att jag skrivit ut mig hos parkmyndigheten och efter att jag satt mig i bilen ner till mitt älskade Moshi igen. Jag började känna igen Afrika som för en vecka varit glömt. Det känndes som att jag rest tillbaka till Tanzania efter att ha varit borta i många, många år – kan sex dagar verkligen kännas så länge? Det var varmt igen (efter att ha fryst, haft på sig dubbla tjocktröjor och använt mössa redan samma morgon), samma låtar som jag hört på radion tidigare spelades även nu, kvinnorna bar fortfarande sina fina afrikanska tyger och det fanns fortfarande coca-cola skyltar överallt. Under dessa sex dagar hade jag glömt bort allt det här, under de här dagarna var det bara Kili som fyllt mina tankar och varit mitt mål. Nu var det över och jag var tillbaka i verkligheten.
Dag 1: Machame Gate – 1811 m, till Machame Huts – 3021 m.
Avstånd: 11 km. Klimat: Regnskog. Tid: 5 timmar.
När vi kom till gaten var vi inte ensamma, överallt fanns det andra turister som var minst lika nervösa och pirriga som vi. Jag och Ida, den fantastiska människa som jag fick möjlighet att lära känna och älska under de här dagarna, fick träffa våra guider – Gaston och Ambrose och resten av vårt crew, vi fyllde på våra vattenflaskor och camelbags och försökte förbereda oss mentalt inför vad vi skulle få gå igenom. Vi bestämde oss för att försöka ta en dag i taget, för mig har det i alla år bara varit toppen eller inget alls. Att bara försöka tänka på att nå dagens läger var svårt men på något sätt lättare att greppa tag om och begripa. Vi började gå vid 11, först längs en grusväg men efter några kilometer förvandlades den nästan omärkligt till en stig som sakta men säkert förde oss högre upp.
Efter ungefär två timmar kom vi fram till lunchstoppet, då hade jag börjat bli väldigt hungrig och smått illamående. Vi hade fått lunchlådor med oss som innehöll följande, bara så att ni får en bild av hur mycket mat vi faktiskt fick på den här resan: en liten pizza (alltså inte en riktig pizza utan detta är ett tunnt degknyte som man har en sorts köttfyllning i och det kallas för pizza här nere), en pirog, ett kycklinglår, två dubbelmackor med smör och morötter på, ett ägg, en muffins, en mangoyoghurt, en mangojuice och ett äpple och en banan. Bör jag tillägga att jag fick i mig ungefär en tredjedel av maten eftersom jag då var så himla illamående? När vi började gå igen och illamåendet fortfarande inte släppt så kom alla de negativa tankarna fram direkt. ”Toppen du klarade hela två timmar på Kilimanjaro. Patetiskt, vad tusan trodde du egentligen? Att du faktiskt skulle klara det?” Etc. Men efter en stund så släppte det och vi kunde fortsätta traska iväg den här gången på en mycket brantare väg än innan.
När vi kom fram till Machame Huts så var det redan ett femtiotal tält uppsatta men allt eftersom fler och fler vandrare kom så ökade även tältens antal. Allt som allt så tror jag att det var cirka 100 tält på platsen, och då inräknat portarnas och guiderna tält och mattälten. Detta trots att det inte var högsäsong. Vi fick en fantastisk middag som den dagen bestod av en jättegod paprika soppa, friterade potatisar (vilket nog var bland det godaste jag ätit i hela mitt liv) med gröna bönor och morötter i en sås och en sorts köttgryta. Till efterrätt fick vi mango.
Vi gick och lade oss tidigt den kvällen, trötta efter dagens ansträngning och alla nya intryck. Nöjda med att vi kommit fram till dagens läger och på så sätt var ett snäpp närmare toppen. Jag somnade till ljudet av folk som pratade glatt med varandra och någon porters radio. Mitt i natten vaknade jag av att jag behövde gå på toaletten, jag steg ut ur tältet, satte på pannlampan, såg röken som kom när jag andades och började smyga iväg. Men tvärstannade då jag såg stjärnhimlen. Det var bland det vackraste jag sett, hundratusentals stjärnor som alla lyste olika starkt och som utan tvekan slog den finaste himmel som jag tidigare sett. Jag fick tvinga mig själv in i tältet för att somna om, helst av allt hade jag velat lägga mig ner på den kalla marken och aldrig sluta titta, att det aldrig någonsin skulle bli dag igen.
Dag 2: Machame Huts – 3021 m, till Shira Cave 3839 m.
Avstånd: 6 + 2 km. Klimat: Skog. Tid: 4 timmar.
Vi vaknade vid 7 av att David, vår underbara porter som även extraknäckte som servitör, larmklocka och vän, knackade på tältet. Vi fick en enorm frukost som inte var sämre än maten vi fått dagen innan. Dagens vandring började med en brant uppförsbacke och efter en halvtimme undrade jag när tusan den skulle ta slut. Det gjorde den aldrig, i alla fall inte förrän vi kom fram till dagens läger, Shira Cave, fyra timmar senare. Eftersom detta var den snabbaste och lättaste dagen fick vi inte med oss någon lunch utan bara ett litet paket kakor och juice som vi kunde äta längs vägen. När vi kom fram till lägret fick vi en stor lunch och vilade sedan några timmar innan vi gick iväg på en liten promenad till Shira Cave så låg ca 100 meter över lägret för att acklimatisera oss till höjden. Den här dagen var till största del grå och med en del regn. På kvällen kom en Rescue Car för att hämta en 35 årig tysk kille som fått akut höjdsjuka. Det började påverka människor redan på den här höjden.
Dag 3: Shira Cave – 3839 m, till Barranco Huts – 3986 m via Lava Tower – 4627 m.
Avstånd: 11 km. Klimat: Skog för att sedan gå över till alpinslätt för att sedan bli skog igen. Tid: 8 timmar.
Den tredje dagen var den dagen som jag tyckte var roligast främst för att vi den här dagen började röra oss från den västra delen av berget till den södra och samtidigt närmade oss snön och glaciärerna på toppen. Det blev också en väldigt viktig dag rent acklimatiserings mässigt eftersom vi vistades på en stund på hög höjd för att sedan gå ner nästan lika mycket igen då dagens nya läger bara låg drygt 150 meter högre upp än Shira Cave. Vi blev väckta samma tid som dagen innan och åt frukost med en fantastisk utsikt där vi var över molnen och tittade bort över Mount Meru. Sedan började sedan en relativt lätt vandring, om man jämförde med dagen innan, upp mot Lava Tower som skulle bli dagens lunchstopp. Lava Tower var en fräck plats. En stor svart klippa som liksom sköt upp från ingenstans och som hade massa stenar runt om som verkade små i jämförelse trots att de flesta var över två meter höga.
Efter det följde några timmars promenad neråt vilket, redan då, var mycket jobbigare än att gå upp för. Vi kom fram till Barranco Huts vid halv 5 och det var ett mycket trevligare ställe än Shira Cave, Barranco hade en mycket större vattenkälla i närheten än Shira och det märktes på växtligheten, det var grönare här. Hem trevligare på något sätt, inte lika kalt. Det var på vägen ner hit som vi också fick en syn av en del av det tuffa moment som vi skulle försöka oss på nästa dag – The Breakfast Wall.
Dag 4: Barranco Huts – 3986 m, till Barafu Huts – 4662 m.
Avstånd: 9 km. Klimat: Alpinslätt. Tid: 8 timmar.
Dagens vandring började extremt eftersom det första vi fick göra var att ta oss an The Breakfast Wall, som inte så överraskande fått sitt namn för att man alltid tacklar väggen direkt efter frukost. The Breakfast Wall är en över 200 meter hög i stort sätt vertikal vägg. Här måste man plocka undan vandringsstavarna och använda händerna på riktigt eftersom det här är så här nära klättring man kommer på berget. Trots att detta var en väldigt jobbig etapp rent fysiskt så var det också väldigt roligt att få använda kroppen på ett annat sätt än vad man gjort de tidigare dagarna och efter en och en halv timme, när vi äntligen nått toppen av väggen så trodde vi att det jobbigaste var gjort för dagen. Men det var innan jag visste att jag skulle bli så påverkad av höjden.
De nästkommande två timmarna följdes av en nedförsbacke för att sedan bli en väldigt brant uppförsbacke innan vi kom fram till Karanga Valley Campsite, dagens lunchstopp. Om vi hade använt vår acklimatiseringsdag så skulle vi ha sovit här den natten men eftersom Karanga Valley bara ligger cirka 50 meter högre upp än Barranco Huts så valde vi, i samråd med våra guider, att fortsätta till Barafu Huts men istället för att gå upp vid midnatt och ta oss till toppen, börja klockan sex på morgonen så att vi hunnit vila ordentligt.
Vägen från lunchstoppet till lägret var tre väldigt långa och jobbiga timmar. Jag började känna av höjden och jag mådde verkligen inte bra av den. Jag hade en envis huvudvärk som inte försvann trots mängder av värktabletter, illamående och yrsel. När vi kommit upp för den sista jobbiga backen och jag inte hade någon som helst energi kvar så ville jag nästan börja gråta av utmattning när jag insåg att lägret fortfarande låg 100 meter bort. Jag orkade ingenting men på något sätt kom jag fram till registreringen ändå och kunde kladda ner mina personuppgifter.
På kvällen pinade jag i mig lite av middagen och gick sedan och lade mig och hoppades på att jag skulle bli tusen gånger starkare tills imorgon. Nu var det inte längre ett mål att ta sig fram till nästa dags läger. Nu var det toppen eller inget alls. Ingen kommer ju ihåg en förlorare eller någon som ger upp. På natten vaknade jag av att alla andra vandrare gav sig iväg, jag smög ut ur tältet och gick på toaletten och möttes återigen av den fantastiska stjärnhimlen, men nu ännu vackrare än den varit första natten och nu även med ljuset av pannlampor från vandrarna påväg upp till toppen. På ett sätt var jag avundsjuk på dom, jag hade ju ställt in mig i så många år på att vara en av dom som gick upp mitt i natten och fick bevittna soluppgången från toppen av Afrika och nu blev det inte så. Men min kropp hade aldrig klarat av det då, jag var fortfarande väldigt trött och det faktumet att jag blev andfådd bara av att vända mig om i sovsäcken och det tog flera minuter innan andningen blev normal igen skvallrade om att följande dag skulle bli en jobbig en och jag behövde all vila jag kunde få.
Dag 5: Barafu Huts – 4662 m, till Uhuru Peak – 5895 m och sedan ner till Millennium Camp – 3827 m.
Avstånd: 5 + 4 km. Klimat: Arktiskt + alpin. Tid: 6 + 5 timmar.
David väckte oss klockan fem på morgonen och vi fick in varmt vatten och några kakor i tältet. Vi fick bevittna solen som steg upp bakom Mawenzi Peak, det var så vackert och det gjorde ingenting att jag inte fick se den från toppen, det här räckte gott och väl. Vid sex var vi redo att börja gå.
Egentligen kommer jag inte ihåg så himla mycket från det att vi började gå fram tills att vi kom upp till Stella Point. Jag mådde otroligt dåligt på grund av höjdsjuka och för mig känndes det som att vara väldigt, väldigt full. Jag kunde inte fokusera på någonting som till exempel när Ida stod rätt framför mig och pratade till mig och jag varken förstod vad hon sa eller kunde fokusera blicken på henne, jag var yr och skulle ha ramlat betydligt fler gånger än jag faktist gjorde om jag inte haft stavarna. Jag blev som ett barn. Jag har kunnat gå sedan jag var ett år gammal men den dagen känndes det som att jag hade glömt av hur man gör. Det var stunder där Ida fick putta på min rygg för att jag skulle komma igång och börja gå igen och det är jag otroligt tacksam för, utan henne skulle jag aldrig ha klarat det. Min guide tog min ryggsäck för att det skulle bli lättare för mig och han fick till och med sätta mitt hår bakom öronen och dra ner mössan ordentligt. Det var sådana saker som jag inte klarade av göra, jag förstod inte ens. Jag orkade inte. Andningen var också väldigt ansträngd, det var som när man springer så långt och så snabbt att man tillslut bara vill lägga sig ner på marken och kräkas, så känndes det efter att man tagit fem steg. Sedan fick man stanna och ta en mängd stora djupa andetag och sedan gå ytterligare fem steg innan man behövde stanna igen.
När vi sakta men säkert tog oss upp för berget förbannade jag mig själv flera gånger om över att jag borde valt något mindre jobbigt att ha som mitt livs dröm. Ponny ridning eller upptäcka ett riktigt bra botemedel för cancer. Vad som helst som inte innebar att behöva ta sig upp för värdens femte högsta berg. Just då känndes det som en värdelös idé. När det var ungefär 300 meter kvar upp till bergskanten mötte vi en grupp med tyska vandrare. Glada och pigga efter att ha nått toppen. En av dom försökte peppa mig genom att säga att det inte var långt kvar nu. Jag frågade honom om det verkligen var värt det. Det är det, svarade han. När du når upp till kanten kan du se toppen och då kommer du glömma av allt det jobbiga.
Jag bestämde mig för att låtsas tro honom, det känndes inte alls som att det kunde vara värt det men då kunde jag ju alltid gå runt och vara sur på den här människan i resten av mitt liv, låtsas att det på något sätt var hans fel. Men när vi äntligen kom upp för bergskanten och till Stella Point insåg jag att han hade rätt. Här ifrån kunde man se skylten på Uhuru Peak och för första gången den dagen känndes jag mig pigg och full av energi. Nu var det bara 45 minuters promenad kvar, jag behövde bara komma ynka 139 meter högre upp för att kunna stå på toppen av Kilimanjaro.
Den sista biten hade jag kunnat springa men valde att inte göra det för att det skulle varit så typiskt att dö 20 meter från toppen, efter alla ansträngningar. Klockan 11.50 lördagen den 25 oktober 2014 kom jag upp till toppen av Kilimanjaro, Uhuru Peak på 5895 meter. Afrikas högsta, världens femte högsta och världens högsta fristående berg. Jag började gråta av lycka och jag ska säga er att om man är lika uttorkad som ett russin så krävs det ganska mycket för att man ska kunna gråta men jag lyckades ändå. Vi tog mängder av bilder, tog med oss en sten och sand och Ida våga sig till och med på att stå på huvud på toppen.
Och sen då? Vad gör man när man tagit alla dom där bilderna och gråtit lite? Vi var på toppen i 20 minuter och sedan påbörjade vi promenaden ner igen. Det känndes så knäppt på något sätt, här har vi gått och kämpat i fem dagar, förberett oss i flera år och så är vi bara där i ynka 20 minuter. Var det ens värt det då? Ja, det tycker jag. Jag kom ju dit, inte sant? Min stora dröm gick i uppfyllelse.
Om vägen upp var jobbig så var vägen ner värre. Nu hade jag ingenting att se fram emot längre, ingenting att försöka kämpa för. All energi var borta och jag ville bara lägga mig ner på marken och dö, eller i alla fall försvinna en stund. Även om vi skulle till samma läger som vi sovit på natten innan så tog vi inte samma väg ner. Nu skulle vi glida på sand ner till lägret och det lönar sig verkligen om man innan vet hur man åker skidor eftersom man i stort sätt använde samma teknik som när man åker slalom. Men eftersom jag inte åkt så himla mycket skidor i mitt tidigare liv och inte heller var i ett perfekt tillstånd att lära mig det snabbt så fick Ambrose ta mig under armen och dra ner mig för berget.
Väl tillbaka till Barafu Huts fick vi vila en timme innan vi åt lunch och sedan var vi tvungna att börja gå igen. Det är inte bra för kroppen att vistas så länge på så hög höjd så våra guider ville inte att vi skulle sova i samma läger den natten utan gå ner till Millennium Camp, en och en halv timme därifrån (det tog två och en halv för oss). Vanligtvis brukar man gå ner till ett läger som heter Mweka Huts men eftersom det låg tre timmar bort bestämde vi oss för att övernatta i Millennium istället av den enkla anledningen att jag inte skulle orka gå så långt.
Dag 6: Millennium Camp – 3827 m, till Mweka Gate 1633 m.
Avstånd: 12 km. Klimat: Regnskog. Tid: 5 timmar.
Jag hade nog haft tur under hela den här resan, jag hade inte fått ett enda skoskav och nästan inte känt av någon som helst träningsvärk mer än lite stelhet. Allt kom istället på sista dagen. Tänk vad förödande det hade varit om jag fått det dag ett? Den här sista dagen var inte rolig alls, eftersom jag var väldigt sliten från dagen innan. Men att man sakta men säkert börjar kunna andas allt bättre och bättre var en välkommen förändring.
Det som gjorde dagen värt det var att vi fick se massa Colobus apor – svarta apor med stora vita yviga svansar och vitt skägg. De satt högt uppe i träden, hoppade från från grenar till andra grenar och åt mat. Himla kul att få se! Vi kom fram till registreringen vid tre, fick ut våra certifikat som bekräftade att vi faktiskt nått toppen av Kilimanjaro och åkte sedan iväg in till Moshi där vi åt en avslutningslunch på Krisburger och där vi fick träffa gänget för sista gången.
Det känndes konstigt att vara tillbaka på något sätt. Resten av världen hade för en vecka varit glömt och nu var jag helt plötsligt tillbaka i verkligheten. Det känndes också overkligt att jag varit på toppen. Som en dröm eller som att det är något som inte stämmer. Det är tur att Jag har bilder och certifikat som bevis.
Sådär! Det här var min ”korta” sammanfattning av mitt äventyr på Kilimanjaro! Har ni några frågor till exempel om de mytomspunna toaletterna eller vad KPAP egentligen betyder så kommentera gärna. 
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