Nu är det bara tre (eller typ två för jag har suttit med det här inlägget i ungefär fyra timmar nu) dagar kvar tills jag påbörjar min vandring upp till Uhuru Peak och jag är så otroligt nervös, men på ett bra sätt. Pirrig liksom. Uhuru Peak (Uhuru betyder frihet på swahili) är ju den högsta punkten på Kilimanjaro och Kilimanjaro är ju Afrikas högsta berg, världens femte högsta och världens högsta fristående berg, låter inte det helt sjukt egentligen? 5895 meter över havet! Och jag ska dit, inte för att skryta eller så.
Kilimanjaro är också den högsta punkten i världen som inte kräver tidigare klättringskunskaper, man kan helt enkelt bara ta och promenera (eller ja, ”promenera”) upp för det. För ungefär tre veckor sedan slog en tjej från Storbritannien det nya världsrekordet för kvinnor att ta sig upp till toppen på snabbast tid: 11 timmar och 43 minuter. För männen är det fortfarande fransmannen Gérard Bavato som sedan 2007 håller rekordet på 5 timmar och 26 minuter. För oss vanliga dödliga människor tar det bara en sisådär 5 dagar att nå toppen. Den yngsta personen var 7 år gammal när han nådde toppen, och den äldsta 87.
Kort sagt så är Kilimanjaro ett berg som nästan vem som helst med en normalfysik borde klara av, vilket cirka 40 000 människor varje år prövar på. Men den vanligaste orsaken till att folk inte lyckas ta sig upp till toppen är nästan alltid höjdsjuka. Och det finns egentligen ingenting som man kan göra åt det mer än att försöka förebygga det så gott det går med Diamox (ett läkemedel som i Sverige används som behandling för glaukom men som man också kan använda som behandling för eller i förebyggande syfte mot höjdsjuka. Problemet här är att om man får höjdsjuka ändå så finns det ingen behandling för det då tabletterna uppenbarligen inte längre fungerar) och att gå pole-pole (långsamt) som guiderna säger på berget. Höjdsjuka har med ens gener att göra (så ni kan ju gissa på vilka jag kommer skylla på om jag nu inte skulle nå toppen) och inte fysik, antigen så får man det eller inte.
Jag har valt att gå Machame Route, det är den populäraste vägen upp (cirka 15 000 människor går varje år detta rutt så nu är den till och med lite fööör populär att KINAPA funderar på att sätta en gräns över hur många personer som ska få vara på berget samtidigt) men det finns fem andra vägar också – Rongai, Marangu (den näst vanliga med nästan lika många besökare som Machame) Lemosho, Umbwe och Mweka Route. Machame Route brukar också i vissa sammanhang kallas för Whiskey Route helt enkelt för att det är en av de jobbigaste vägarna upp. Om man till exempel jämför med Marangu Route som brukar kallas för Coca-Cola Trail eftersom coca-cola helt enkelt inte är lika starkt som whiskey. Och nu undrar ni ju självklart varför tusan jag väljer den jobbigaste vägen upp – jo för att med Machame Route är det störst chans att nå toppen på! Och så är det en mycket roligare och finare väg. Jag har hört att 95 procent av alla som tar denna vägen upp når till toppen (guiden som jag hade när jag åkte på utflykt med till vattenfallet för två veckor sedan var ännu mer generösare med antalet och sa att 99 procent klarar det och nu tänker jag välja att tro på honom för jag vägrar vara den ynka procenten som inte klarar det), jämfört med 80 procent på Marangu. Detta tack vare att man har en extra dag på berget, det är en lite längre sträcka att gå och att stigen som man går på också även stundtals går neråt vilket gör att man har bättre chans att acklimatisera sig.
Under dom här fem dagarna som det tar att nå upp till toppen så kommer jag passera mellan fyra och sex olika miljözoner, beroende på hur man räknar. På tisdag kommer jag börja på cirka 1800 meters höjd och då i regnskog och när jag når toppen på lördag på nästan 6000 meters höjd kommer det (än så länge) finnas glaciärer där. Men isen på Kilimanjaro håller, liksom alla andra isar runt om i världen, på att smälta och beräknas vara borta helt om 20 år. Men bara för att isarna smälter så betyder det inte att det inte kommer vara kallt! Man brukar räkna att när man når 4000 meters höjd så sjunker temperaturen med 1°C för varje 150 meter man kommer längre upp förutsatt att det på 4000 meters är 0°C. Detta innebär att det kommer vara minst -13°C på Uhuru Peak. Ibland har det varit över 30 minusgrader där, allt beroende på hur vinden ligger. Imorgon hade jag tänkt visa er vad jag packat med mig för det kändes verkligen jättekonstigt att packa med sig underställ och vinterjackor när man skulle till Afrika.
Märker ni nu att jag har ganska bra koll på Kilimanjaro? För nästan tre år sedan fick jag världens bästa guidebok i julklapp och jag måste bara slå ett slag för den. ”Kilimanjaro – the trekking guide to Africa’s highest mountain” av Henry Stedman är min bibel! All kärlek till den! Där står allt jag behöver veta och inte visste att jag ville veta om Kilimanjaro (och allt runt omkring). Och jag tror inte att jag kan vara mer förberedd än vad jag redan är nu, det här kommer bli så kul!
Och slutligen.. Varför väljer jag att göra det här? Vad är det egentligen för mening med att försöka sig på att bestiga det här berget? Jo, för att jag kan! Det är därför jag gör det. För. Att. Jag. Kan. Enklare än så blir det inte. Och skulle jag bara vilja dela med mig av den här citatet från ”The Snows of Kilimanjaro” av Ernest Hemingway (varför läste jag inte den här novellen innan jag åkte?) för det är precis så jag känner. Varje gång jag får se berget så slår hjärtat dubbla slag och jag får samma känslor som när man är nyförälskad. Jag hyser en sådan enorm kärlek till det här berget och jag har aldrig varit så här motiverad i hela mitt liv. Det kommer bli skit jobbigt och jag kommer vilja ge upp flera gånger om men jag vägrar låta mig själv göra det. Inte den här gången. För det kommer bli en helt fantastiskt upplevelse och jag skulle aldrig vilja missa den här chansen.
”Compie turned his head and grinned and pointed and there, ahead, all he could see, as wide as the world, great, high, and unbelievably white in the sun, was the top of Kilimanjaro. And then he knew that there was where he was going.”
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I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)
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The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.
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